Photographing White Flowers

[jennyb]

It was a glorious day today so I took the opportunity to try to get some decent photographs of the snowdrops in my garden. I have always struggled with white flowers so I tried experimenting.

It was sunny but among the trees they were not in full sun. I took some at ISO 400 and some at ISO 200. I used Aperture priority with a wide range of apertures and various exposure compensation stops.

I took over 200 photos and frankly most of them are really disappointing. They are very flat and lifeless. I can brighten them up using PSP, but it would be nice to know where I am going wrong.

Any suggestions?

Jenny

[Seajay]

If the sun hits them early in the morning Jenny try then.

Colin

[Ukwildlifeo]

When photographing white ducks I put the exposure right down and keep experimenting till i get a good shot. sometimes i get my (or whoevers with me's shadow) to cast over it and then take a shot. But thats the best I can do. Perhaps someone can help both of us out!

[mh68]

2 more things worth trying are firstly, to wait for a dull day.Flowers arent really my subject but in all the literature i`ve read it suggests that overcast, but bright conditions are best for awkward flower subjects like yours.
Also, turn the contrast right down on your in-camera settings if youre shooting in jpeg, that`ll help prevent blowing the whites and losing detail in the darker areas.Add contrast in editing if need be so you have more control.

Mark H

[jennyb]

Originally Posted by Seajay

If the sun hits them early in the morning Jenny try then.

Colin

I waited till late afternoon when the sun was low. I thought the light would be better. I don't usually take photographs of flowers in the sun, they seem to be much better slightly shaded.

Jenny

[delros1]

for snowdrops i set my camera to spot metering for small groups,and under expose by ev-1.5 to1,7,i also find that my 70 to300mm, when set to the fl,300mm,and set to it closes, focus distance.works really well.

[RichBrew]

jennyb:

It would help us if you could post some examples, so we could see what results you are getting.

RichBrew

[peterjclarke]

An overcast but bright day is what you want for photographing flowers. The tonal range is usually too much with direct sunlight for the camera to record detail in both highlight and shadow areas. I often use diffusers to soften the light and knitting needles are good to stake them into the ground. I often 'bounce' light into the shadows with a reflector and whith digital you can see the results straight away. Can you post some of your results so we can have a look?

[jennyb]

Here are a couple of the best. You will see they really lack vibrance.

With DOF, I was aiming to make one of the flowerheads in focus, which I think I achieved with these two.

This is the best one how it appears straight out of the camera, just resized.



This is the same photo brightened and some blemishes removed.



I was using a 60mm lens, ISO 400, F3.2, 1/250sec and -0.3 compensation for the above.

This is probably the next best, brightened and de-blemished.



This was a 60mm lens, ISO 400, F2.8, 1/1000sec and -0.3 compensation.

Jenny

[RichBrew]

Jenny:

All digital images need some processing: whether in-camera (jpgs), or post processing using software.
Peter's right about the light, and as you point out yourself, the flowers themselves were not in direct light from the sun (preferable). Direct light from the sun will kill colour, increase contrast to unmanageable proportions and destroy any texture. Apart from failing to adjust levels etc. using imaging software, I don't think you are doing anything wrong per se.

RichBrew

[wildlifesnapper]

Hi Jenny,

well there's plenty of detail in the whites so the exposure is ok.Like rich says they just need tweeking with your software to bring them to there best.

Nice shots

neil

[Geoff F]

Fully agree with the avoiding direct sunshine tip. Another problem is waiting for a windless day. In reality there aren't many ideal flower photographing days in the average year. Use spot metering to calculate the exposure and adjust slightly as required.

With some types of flower it can be difficult to get the colours correct but a Custom White Balance is worth trying. I know it can be a bit of a chore but often it will save the day. Shooting RAW will give you a second chance at White Balance. Sometimes adjusting the Colour Temperture during RAW conversion helps.

[wildlifesnapper]

Hi,

there are loads of days for photographing flowers, you just make your own ideals
In bright sunlight cast a shadow with a lastotite type reflector , your body your coat or you can buy a diffuser for the job.
Use a reflector to bounce light back onto the shadow side if it's a colourful flower.I use a little home made one which is cardboard covered in tinfoil.
Don't wait for a windless day stick the camera on a tripod and use a cable release.If you have mirror lock-up(400d has it), use it and wait for a lull in the breeze, it will come. Just don't look away or that's when the flower will stop moving.Shelter the flower from the breeze , use your camera bag or take off your coat and us it as a wind break.Many a time I've laid at the side of small flowers and held my coat out above my body the shelter it.

These are just a few I use , there must be loads more

Good luck,

neil

[jennyb]

Originally Posted by Geoff F

Fully agree with the avoiding direct sunshine tip. Another problem is waiting for a windless day. In reality there aren't many ideal flower photographing days in the average year. Use spot metering to calculate the exposure and adjust slightly as required.

With some types of flower it can be difficult to get the colours correct but a Custom White Balance is worth trying. I know it can be a bit of a chore but often it will save the day. Shooting RAW will give you a second chance at White Balance. Sometimes adjusting the Colour Temperture during RAW conversion helps.

I was using evaluative metering and white balance set to shade (7000). Maybe I should be experimenting more with these? I don't shoot raw - I have not yet plucked up courage!

Many thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I am hoping for a decent day next weekend to try out some of the tips before the snowdrops are finished.

Jenny

[peterjclarke]

All the above comments seem pretty good to me. I have often used knitting needles and wire ties to steady plants when photographing them on windier days (I now own a couple of Wimberly Plamps). Of course you have to be careful because most wild flowers are protected by law and there are some rare plants (orchids etc) which are schedule 8 (I believe) which have severe restrictions in place. Rightfully I should have a complex about plant photography because my father is one of the country's top professional plant photographers. I was holding lastolites from a very early age... I still have the scars!!!!

[Jon]

Jenny when phtographing white flowers you will need to consider increasing exposure slighlty. At first this sounds back to front but it isn't - Your meter will try to underexpose those whites. Secondly as was previously mentioned try to phtograph them in subdued light then you will get less flare. Thirdly use the histogram, try to fill it up to the right but don't get blown highlights.
When processing open the raw file and using the white balance tool click on the white flower before adjusting levels contrast etc. Your shots don't look bad - don't forget to sharpen them.

To keep the capture sharp use a cable release or remote timer and obviously ensure the subject is still. Either tripod or bean bag are essential.

Hope this helps.

Jon

[gfilmsuk]

Hi Jenny
I would rather photograph plants on a bright sunny day purely for the strength and quality of the light, but you must difuse it.
Get yourself a small Lastolite reflector. They fold up quite small and can be carried easily. You have several options including a difuser which will do the trick in bright sunlight. Just plase the difuser between the sun and your subject, close for more effect or further back for more subtle difusing.
Photographing plants on overcast days will reduce shaddow etc but I find you then need to bounce light back onto the subject to get the desired effect. Depth of field can also be a problem, you want as much of the plant in focus but isolate it from the background. Create yourself a fake background from a piece of black mounting card bought from any art supply shop. Daub some vertical lines on the card using greens, browns etc, dont try and do a painting of plants, you just need shapes, lines etc with rough edges. Start with an all-over darkish green and gradually add streaks of lighter shades of geens and browns, any old paint will do.
Place this behind your subject, not too close, and you will find that you can select apertures of f8, f11, f16 without bringing the background into focus. A longer lens is excellent as oposed to a wide angle or close-up. Set your camera up well back from the subject and zoom in. This will compress the picture and make the background appear much nearer to the subject than it really is giving a natural and undetectable look.
Experiment with your set-up and camera settings and you'll find yourself hooked on plant photography. If you're serious, an angle finder is a very worthwhile addition to the camera bag.
I made a large difuser a few years ago which I still have and lives in the boot of the car. I bought 2m x 2m of the material, and I can't for the life of me remember what it's called, for about 6 quid. I stitched all the way around the edge to create a wide hem and then threaded into the hem this white water pipe you can buy from any DIY store. The corners are the bends, or elbows or whatever the correct plumbing jargon is. The whole thing just pushes together and is ready for use in about 30 seconds.
Dave

[gfilmsuk]

Thanks Jenny, you have a brilliant web-site. You must have the patience of a saint waiting for that Mole to pop-up out of the ground. Lovely pics of the woodland mouse.
Thanks for sharing that.
Dave

[jennyb]

Many thanks for all the suggestions. I have a lot to think about and realise that if I am going to do this properly I need to use reflectors/diffusers to get the light right. I will also pay more attention to the histogram. The background is a great idea for flowers that have located themselves in an unphotogenic position and most difficult of all I need some decent weather!

Jenny