Macro photography hints and tips- put them here!

[arvensis]

As was suggested in another thread, a thread for what the title says.

Mark

[carlj]

One mag suggested manually focussing, and because depth of field is so small, use continuous shooting and rock slightly back and forth while shooting to ensure at least one shot has perfect focus.

[Alan]

Originally Posted by carlj

One mag suggested manually focussing, and because depth of field is so small, use continuous shooting and rock slightly back and forth while shooting to ensure at least one shot has perfect focus.

Wouldn't it be easier to depress the depth of field preview button (if you have one!) and manually focus while it's depressed. Though it can be a bit dark to see, it should give you a good idea of what you'll get. This is an old technique that works well for any subject from macro to landscapes.

[Boddie]

I like the rocking idea. i.e ala Arthur Fowler

[carlj]

Dof preview is no problem for me, but many D50 owners miss out on that pleasure!

[MalcolmX]

Originally Posted by carlj

One mag suggested manually focusing, and because depth of field is so small, use continuous shooting and rock slightly back and forth while shooting to ensure at least one shot has perfect focus.

I suggest if you rock at all you will get no photos in focus. macro work depends entirely on stability. i always suggest to my students that they use a strong tripod a cable release and mirror lockup ,obviously sometimes you cannot do this then either use a bean bag or mono pod . if you are on manual focus and on a tripod it will be to your advantage to use a rail to move the camera and the lens hope this helps

[Fourwings]

I usually run a series of shots of using different f.stops, for Dragonflies I find that the range between f 3.5 and f 6 works best in good light.
With Dragonflies, especially the larger Hawkers, using a lower stop than f 3.5 will result in loss of focus on part of the insect, which may be desireable for some real close-up work but not if you want a whole insect image.

I agree with Malcomx, any movement in macro work will result in loss of focus unless you are using shutter speeds well beyond 1/500 sec, having said that most of my macro shots are handheld, I only resort to the tripod for three reasons,
1. Lack of available light.
2. Extremely small subject matter
3. Prolonged shooting situations such as Dragonfly emergence.

One final piece of advice I would like to give to anyone starting in macro work is to never edit or delete an image based on what you can see on the LCD screen of the camera, unless it is obviously out of focus, or the subject is not in the image.
Keep everything until you see it on a PC monitor, you will be suprised at just how often that average looking shot when viewed on the camera can either be much better than you thought or become something really good with a little creative photo editing.

[Oscar2006]

Average looking shot Fourwings?
Didn't think you did average looking anymore?

Oscar

[Fourwings]

Originally Posted by Oscarstours2006

Average looking shot Fourwings?
Didn't think you did average looking anymore?

Oscar

Only on my "off days" or if I'm nursing a good hangover

[digi]

Originally Posted by Fourwings

or if I'm nursing a good hangover

I am currently creating one!

Hicupp

[MalcolmX]

Fourwings totally agree with you ,however i do do hand hold macro work and i can get all in focus as you obviously do but i find the less experienced often set up the camera and then lean into the shot as they take it or move the camera just a fraction as they press the shutter. it may be that you and i are overcritical off sharpness and others find the shot perfectly acceptable .macro work is so demanding of accuracy i hate to leave anything to chance to the extent that i often operate the camera threw my laptop to get the best i can ,camera screens are best used a framing guide or a guide to exposure .