Eos 20d & Macro Lens

[glsammy]

Originally Posted by digi

Don't worry this has happened to a couple of my Canon L lenses so its not confined to Sigma.

If something is going to fail it will usually do so in the first three weeks.

Of course Digi is right, I'm not bothered about it, I'm sure it will be OK. I'm certainly impressed by the optical quality, thats what really matters. I've also got a four year warranty!

[digi]

Originally Posted by glsammy

I've also got a four year warranty!

You have a four year warranty? what about the lens

[glsammy]

Oh, the lens? I'd forgot all about that...

[Jon]

Originally Posted by gnu

Hi Everyone

Ive got a 300d that I've had for 12 months, still very pleased with it, jealous of the 20D! I'm interested in the comments re macro lenses. No one has mentioned the canon efs 60mm f2.8. Is it any good? Obviously everyone is greatly infavour of the cheaper sigma lenses. Ive never owned a macro lense so would greatly appreciate any comments or tips.

gnu

The new canon lens is good but the older 100mm macro will give you a longer working distance. The new 60mm is designed to function as the 100mm did with 35mm filem. All the lenses discussed so far are very good but no one has mentioned the Tamron 180mm macro. I understand that this is excellent. The real issue is how much greater minimum focal distance would you get with the 150 or 18mm as opposed to a 100mm? Also of course do you intend doing 1:1 macro or even greater, this is when the minimum focal distance is important.
I used to do quite a lot of 1:1 and 1:2. 1:3 on 35mm and found the 100mm macro fine, having said that I tried last summer and wished I had a longer lens. Regards shutter speed if you use manual flash and a shutter speeed of between 1/60 and 1/200 at f16 to f22 I found the image would always be pin sharp. You would need to calibrate your flash gun on manual but this is now a doddle as you can use your histogram on the camera. Some folks will say flash is not natural and prefer daylight but good shots are not always possible especially if the daylight is not bright. When using flash be prepared to lower the shutter speed if necessary to capture ambient light and keep you eye on the back ground so your shots don't look as though they are all taken at midnight! The reason for manual flash is that the output is always constant and so the exposure is ensured. Rechargable batteries are very much better than they used to be and those in excess of 2000mAh will prove consistent and durable in use. The days of me carrying a battery pack around my waist are gone! TTL flash can give variable results outside, I prefer not to rely on it. It is also a good idea to ensure that your shots appear to the left of centre on your hstogram i.e. slightly underexposed, this will help prevent having your highlights burnt out. It is for this reason that for all other photography I tend to use aperture priority and set it to -1/3 to -2/3 stop. I too have just got a 20D and I am very pleased indeed with it though I find the little button by the thumb wheel a bit naff. I use the button top right and the finger wheel to change the AF point.

[MalcolmX]

I've noticed that quite a few contributers to WAB use this camera, so I was wondering if anyone could pass on some hints/tips to help me and my new camera become best friends before the start of the new Dragonfly season in a few weeks time. [/quote]
congrats vgood camera i use all canon and i have the 100mm macro lens vvgood also doubles up as a portrait lense . you will get dust on your sensor so please learn to clean sensor . it is quite easy . although raw is the best way to shoot i suggest you play with the camera as max jpeg and see just how good it is .

[digi]

Originally Posted by MALCOLMX

I've noticed that quite a few contributers to WAB use this camera, so I was wondering if anyone could pass on some hints/tips to help me and my new camera become best friends before the start of the new Dragonfly season in a few weeks time.
congrats vgood camera i use all canon and i have the 100mm macro lens vvgood also doubles up as a portrait lense . you will get dust on your sensor so please learn to clean sensor . it is quite easy . although raw is the best way to shoot i suggest you play with the camera as max jpeg and see just how good it is .

There are help files on the site and if people want to add to them look here

http://www.wildaboutbritain.co.uk/fo...html#post11771

[MalcolmX]

sorry i missed the bit about dragon flies my tip for static shots use a tripod use shutter relese cable and set custom function for mirror lock up as on . just a reminder to practice with mirror lock up as it as 2 distinct movements

[gnu]

Hi Jon

Thanks for the info about setting that you have found usefull for macro work. That will give me a good starting point from which to experiment. If anyone else has any tips perhaps we should start a hints and tips about macro photography topic!!

Thanks again

[eeyore]

Get the pixmantec Raw shooter (I think thats what its called), Andy Rouse helped them develop it which should tell us all we need to know... and its free to download (premium version is fifty notes)

[pxl8]

Originally Posted by eeyore

Get the pixmantec Raw shooter (I think thats what its called), Andy Rouse helped them develop it which should tell us all we need to know... and its free to download (premium version is fifty notes)

I've never been impressed with RSE or its bigger brother for processing nature/macro images. The noise removal code is a bit too aggressive for my liking, even turned off it's still doing something and the results tend to suffer from banding with a kind of lumpy over processed feel, esp. in out of focus regions.