I was getting my home made garden frames ready for the coming season and just wondered if the details would be of any use to other gardeners.
I have been making similar simple structures for a number of years and find them invaluable. Being easily portable they can be moved around as required to give earlier crops and prevent pests including stopping cats from digging up new seeds. Very effective in preventing carrot fly.
I find that a lot of similar equipment from garden centres is expensive and poorly made but can easily be made by anyone with basic DIY skills
Sizes can be varied to suit individual requirements but I find that something around 42/48 ins x 24/26 ins x 15ins high is sufficient and comfortable to move around.
This one uses the following timber (all imperial sizes) 4 @ 2x1x42 ins; 4 @ 2x1x26 ins for the rails. 4 @ 2x2x15 ins for the corner posts and 2 @ 2x1x15 ins for upright side strengtheners.
The only difficult bit is to cut grooves in the rails. Easy if you are experienced and have a router or groove cutting plane but otherwise you might have to get an expert to do this part (this can save on bandages). Cut the grooves approx 1/4 ins wide and 1/2 ins deep. Then attach to the corner posts. If one side is bolted instead of being screwed it can easily be disassembled for winter storage. A 2x1 upright post on each of the long sides adds strength when being moved.
Slide glass into the grooves. Cut the glass (better to get this from a glazier) to leave a slack fit for easier assembly. The long side glass is better if it is in 2 pieces. A strip of beading can be screwed to the corner posts to hold the glass in place but I usually leave it open for ventilation; although care is needed when moving because the glass can slide out.
An addition to my latest design is a piece of 2x1 timber nailed to the bottom rails in order to reduce glass breakage and be simply replaced if it rots from being in contact with the ground.
I usually construct the top from 2x1 (on the flat) timber with a groove running all the way around. A middle bar makes for easier handling. The end rails slip into place using halfing joints to line up the grooves and screw into place. I have also found suitable sized secondary glazing panels to be very effective here.
An alternative is to use fleece or fine netting on the top instead of glass to keep out pests but allow rain to come through. This can also be effective for creating a bit of shading. UV stabilised perspex can be used instead of glass in all places.
Hope this makes some sense. I was going to do it all by pictures like those universal flat pack instructions. But I have never been able to understand them!
Geoff.
ps. No responsibility accepted for misuse of sharp tools etc.
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