THE EAST-SIDE OF ENGLAND, JUNE, 2002
A NINE-DAY CYCLE TRIP.
It was an area, I wished to visit since I took up cycle touring 25 years ago. This was to be the areas of Suffolk, Norfolk, Lincolnshire and the Wolds. When Sustrans first opened the Harwich to Hull and the White Rose Cycle Routes. I jumped at the chance with a bit of help from Dave, my cycling buddy.
Day One.
We set off from Darlington Station to Peterborough Station. When we arrived and opened the carriage door, the mid-day heat just hit us for six and the weather for the trip was that, apart a wet morning after Hunstanston. We cycled out of Peterborough with 45 miles of cycling to Cambridge Youth Hostel. The heat was so intense we kept stopping to drink from becoming too dehydrated. We made a promise amongst ourselves not to drink alcohol in any pubs on route whilst on the bike. Apart from in the evening when we would relax at ease.
Day Two.
We arrived at Harwich International Port from Cambridge Station to make a fast pursuit for our ferry connection to take us across the River Deben to Landguard Fort. The ferry was some sort of a World War 2 relic that was a landing craft. When we arrived at Felixstowe, the end flap was let down and we had to carry the bikes up to the roadside across the shingle beach. It was a short ride of 21 miles to Blaxhall Youth Hostel, passing through the villages of Bawdsey Hollsby and Boyton. We took it easy stopping now and again for the odd bottle of Cola in a bid to stay hydrated.
Day Three.
We have a long ride of 64 miles. After breakfast we headed to Norwich, going through the villages of Peasenhall, Halesworth and stopping at Beccles for lunch where we sat in the grounds of a local churchyard to avoid the mid-day heat. We headed to Norwich via the Yare Valley. After a couple of miles of urban build-up, we were only too glad to get on the A1067 to take us direct to our 1st bed and breakfast in Tavingham. We were lucky enough to have a Fish and Chip shop and Pub within walking distance.
Day Four.
The next morning we headed for the Marriott's Way. A disused railway line, that we cycled for 15 miles. It was nice to have a traffic-free section after hustle and bustle of Norwich City Centre. We passed through Foulsham, Bintree and had lunch in Fakenham. The weather was still warm and sunny and lucky that they were plenty of shops on route, to buy bottles of coke and stay hydrated. We headed northeast to Burnham market and then direct east to Hunstanton. We spoke briefly to a German couple who was cycle camping and seems to be enjoying the superb weather. We arrived at Hunstanton Youth Hostel and off loaded our pannier bags and went into Hunstanton for our tea. It was Pattie and Chips. Cycled 59 miles.
Day Five.
We awoke to a wet morning; we heard that back home they had thunder and lightning and had a month’s supply of rain in a period of 12 hour’s. We were lucky enough to have a few hours of pleasant rainfall, which was refreshing after the heat we were having. By noon the sun came back out and started to get warm. We came to Snettisham; Dave got a puncture and was having problems with his pump. I lend him mine and we got moving again. After King’s Lynn and Wisbech, we arrived in Fleet Hargrave with time to spare.
We saw this Tearoom and popped inside for a pot of tea and Scones. We arrived at our second bed and breakfast in Holbeach, only to be greeted by a snooty lady who wasn’t expecting two cyclist’s, mind you we were up to our necks in sweat and grime. But we had booked and paid our deposit months in advance. The snooty lady said to us please tick any items you wish from the breakfast list; we were so hungry that we ticked the whole lot. Dave and I certainly got our money’s worth. Cycled 55 miles.
Day Six.
The section between King’s Lynn and Lincoln is the flattest of the whole trip and not a hill in sight. So with 64 miles to do, it was going to be dead easy. We cycled mile after mile and felt like it was a never-ending road. After Holbeach St. Marks, we had doubts about Fosdyke Bridge because the A17 passes over. According to a Sustrans warning on the route map, it said very busy road. But we found it was not a problem. After going through Boston, Langrick Bridge. We looked at the map and thought about stopping for lunch at Tattershall Bridge. There should have been a grocer’s shop, but had changed hands and is now a fishing tackle supplier. We pushed on to Woodhall Spa and fighter jets were passing overhead, of cause Raf Coningsby is nearby. At Woodhall Spa we popped into the local Co-op and had Cornish pasties and flavoured milk. I said to Dave looking at the map. We’ll take the disused railway into Lincoln. At first it was going fine, then it started to become rough and overgrown in the middle section. We managed to get through to the other end. Lincoln is a nightmare with a one way system and a steep cobbled street to the castle. We liked Lincoln Youth Hostel very much that we came back in 2003 as part of the Yorkshire and Lincolnshire Wolds trip.
Day Seven
We left early to get out of Lincoln’s early morning traffic, we did not succeed in doing so. We studied a street-map of Lincoln and managed to seek a route taking a few back roads to Nettleham. We noticed the terrain was changing as we approached the Wolds. After Market Rasen, we came to our real first ascent of the trip and Dave loved it after the flat terrain of the Fens. We passed through Walesby, still climbing until we reached the transmitter at the top. Then a sharp descent to Beelsby. And a bit of roller coasting to the Humber Bridge, going through Swallow, Great Limber and Burnham. We saw the Humber Bridge in all its might, a real sight to see. We were now nearer the end of the Harwich to Hull route and starting the next one. The White Rose route to Middlesborough. As we approached the West Side of the bridge, we saw a Dutch family cycle camping. Dave and I took a close look at the gear they were carrying and thought they were on a world tour, we never asked. One thing we had noticed they all had a lovely suntan. When to we got to the other side of the Humber Bridge, we dropped in the cafe for a cup of tea. With just 9 miles to the Youth Hostel in Beverley. We took a direct route to Cottingham and after passing an electricity sub. Station, we had cycled 60 miles and Beverley Minster was within our sights.
Day Eight
We had short day of 39 miles to York. After breakfast we cycled out of Beverley going slightly uphill to Market Weighton, Passing Cherry Burton. We could have taken the Hudson Trail - a former railway, but decided the road was quicker. After Market Weighton, we left the Wolds for the flat section into York. We made good time, but alas when we got to the River Ouse. The floodgates were in force and the Ouse had burst its banks, so a division was called for around the City Centre. We arrived at York Youth Hostel to have a quick shower and then a quick dash to the shops to have a look around.
Day Nine
After a good filling breakfast, we had a long ride of 71 miles to finish in Middlesborough. The riverside section between York and Overton was well and truly flooded, so we diverted and rode a short section of the A19 for about 2 miles. After Overton we had no problems and was easy going until we reached Easingwold, after that it was going to be hard going. After passing Oldstead, I made a mistake of going left into Kilburn leaving Dave behind. I decided to tackle White Horse Bank on 12 gears and sure enough I made it to the top, but no sign of Dave. I pushed on to the Sutton Bank Information Centre and thinking Dave would be sitting in the cafe, but no sign of him. I asked the assistant and she did not know. So I went back as far as the rough track and saw Dave little worst for wear. We had a good laugh about it over a cup of tea back at the Information Centre Cafe. We decided to take a direct route over the Drovers Road to the Sheep Wash, a sharp descent down Scarth Nick and into Swainby. We were back on home ground and made it to Middlesborough in good time and back home for a well earned soak in the bath.
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