FLIGHT SHOTS - what am I doing wrong?

[David Hyde]

I have been admiring the in-flight shots of many of you and have always found it tricky. I was at Minsmere RSPB recently and the Marsh Harriers were showing well, the light was good so I had a go. The one below is an example (cropped) from the many I took.
I was very disappointed with the images. I have shown the original as well as the final crop.
My camera is Nikon D200, lens Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 with sigma 2x TC. Because of the quality reduction expected with the 2x I set to ISO 400 and stopped down to f/7.1.
I corrected for the underexposure and processed using photoshop elements 7.
I shot using a beanbag from a public hide.
I am hoping for a few tips here – please!

I have not had the D200 long so
1) would you recommend different settings?
2) was the subject too far away?
3) am I missing a vital technique?
Of course it could be a mix of all three.

Your help would be greatly appreciated and would save me hours of trial and error

I copied the relevant settings from the image file:-

Compressed RAW (12-bit)
Lens: 122-300mm F/2.8 D
Focal Length: 550mm
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/2500 sec - F/7.1
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 400
Optimize Image: Custom
AF Mode: AF-C
Color Mode: Mode II (Adobe RGB)
Tone Comp.: Normal
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Enhanced
Sharpening: None

[Simon Davey]

Hi David, I think you're pretty darned close, all that's needed is half the ISO, to give half the shutter speed.

You only need about 1/1000 sec for sharp shots of large soaring birds, the don't flap as much, or change direction as quickly as smaller birds.

Also, with a bright sky, where the bird is lightly coloured and well lit, like the marsh Harriers,under expose by 1 or two thirds.

If it's a grey day try over-exposing by up to a whole stop or more.

Those shots you have, are simply over exposed.

Well done though, I'm looking forward to capturing this sort of bird myself.

Also, shutting down the aperture won't always compensate for using a 2x converter, a 1.4x would be better. You'd get better quality thus; be able to crop in further.

[Jim Ford]

One of the things you're doing wrong David, is not posting big enough images for us to properly judge!

Jim

[David Hyde]

Originally Posted by Jim Ford

One of the things you're doing wrong David, is not posting big enough images for us to properly judge!

Jim

Thanks Jim, added another image a 100% crop, hope this helps.
David

[David Hyde]

Originally Posted by Simon Davey

Also, shutting down the aperture won't always compensate for using a 2x converter, a 1.4x would be better. You'd get better quality thus; be able to crop in further.

Thanks for the tips Simon. I have the Sigma 1.4x. Considering the distance I used the 2x. The closer the bird the harder it must be to track. These birds wern't soaring but working back and forth across the reeds so were moving and turning quite fast.
I have added a larger 100% pixel crop to the images.
Thanks, again, David

[Geoff F]

I would agree with Simon, if you are using a x2 converter on a zoom lens you did well to get those shots.

I suspect that a bit of careful sharpening will produce an improved image; and a little bit of exposure editing to increase the contrast will also help.

[Ollie]

Hi David.

I am not familiar with the Nikon camera or lens you are using so I'm not going to comment on that aspect really.

The only thing I can say is that it looks to me when viewing the original image that the bird was a fair distance away. Slightly over exposed as well.

At the distance the bird seems to be from you I would have set an F stop of around F5.6 rather than F7.1 as you shouldn't have had any problems with DOF at that distance.

I'm not contradicting what Simon says about the shutter speed, you can get good sharp shots of this type of bird at 1/1000 but I prefer at least 1/1600 if I can get it to ensure good sharpness.

It's surprising how close you need to be to get in flight shots with good detail even of largish birds like the Marsh Harrier.

[KentYeti]

I'm going through the same issues over birds in flight as you David.

I've been a photographer for over 50 years, but birds only for a month, so I won't presume to tell you what I think is wrong with your results etc. Instead I'll tell you how I am addressing this issue for myself. Hope that is OK for you?

I started bird photography less than month ago and eased myself in with a Nikon 70-300mm lens for my D80. Proving to be a fine lens for fairly close up bird shots. But, IMHO, hopeless for anything flying any distance away. I just cannot crop hard without losing significant detail.

I had expected to be patient for six months or so before moving up a stage or two with my next lens. I knew at the outset that the Nikon 70-300 would not achieve all I wanted. But I'm not patient and all my research etc is pointing me towards a quality prime lens. Probably go for the Nikon 300mm F4 as the next step, with a TC-1.4 converter, knowing full well I'll have to move on from that before long.

I.e. From a lot of reading and looking at images plus taking a lot of photos in the last month etc I just don't think a medium priced consumer market zoom lens will ever get me the overall results I want.

But after an encounter with WAB's Snake on Sheppey tonight, (really nice guy and highly knowledgeable about the area), I'll add Sony DSLR cameras and lenses into my research.

Hope this helps.

[David Hyde]

Thanks for all your advice. I will certainly try the 1.4x next time and will set to ISO 200 - and watch the exposure! I think the distance was too far for any real quality but these tips may help my record shots.
I will bore you all again with my next attempt at flight shots.

[zan]

I very much agree that those shots are really close! Out of curiosity, how do you sharpen your images? If I remember rightly, elements doesn't allow selective sharpening (e.g. the high pass filter) that photoshop does, but you might still be able to get a little more detail out if you're careful with smart sharpen / unsharp mask.