nikon r1c1 flash users

[marvin]

hi

i know at least one forum member and hope a couple of others use this system and i could do with some help.

i have just started using this with a d7000. at all shutter speeds above the flash sync speed i.e. 1/400s and above all my images are significantly underexposed. this happens consistently regardless of high iso and flash/exposure compensation values. i suspect i am doing something wrong or have the camera/flash set incorrectly but can't figure out the problem.

any help/advice/suggestions most welcome

thanks
tim

[marvin]

hi again

problem solved i think.

for anyone interested i was setting a relatively high max iso value but in auto iso assuming the camera would use this to set exposure but it wasn't. it was keeping to the base value of 100 which is why everything was underexposed. i will have to stop being so lazy lol and set the iso manually in future. this seems to work even in low light.

cheers
tim

[pressld2]

Hi Tim,

Glad you've got it sorted. I was almost finished composing a reply when I had to go and do something else for an hour. I'm not sure any of what I've written is relevant but you might as well have it anyway. You never know.

I've been using this system since 2007 but still wouldn't claim to be an expert on it. I have, through trial and error, discovered what works for me, and am happy to share that with you.

I was suckered by the empty compartments in the box into buying a third SB-R200 so I have three flashes. I have never tried to use them at shutter speeds above 1/200th of a second, mainly because my macro lens is the Sigma 150mm and therefore, when shooting hand-held, I go for a shutter speed of 1/160th (the reciprocal of the focal length) and an aperture of f11 (the lens's sweet spot).

With all three flashes lens mounted and all three with diffusers fitted, my shots will be under-exposed. Assuming ambient light is not a factor then if I'm at the closest focus I might be able to dial in +three stops of exposure compensation and get a decent result. If the subject is further away then it's unlikely that any amount of exposure compensation will do the job. One answer is to drop the shutter speed as the flash duration is significantly less than 1/160th of a second anyway so, depending on how much ambient light there is, I may be able to freeze all camera shake even at lower shutter speeds. If I can use a tripod so much the better but I find that difficult for insects. However, the best solution I have found is to take the diffuser off one of the flashes. This then becomes a "key" light with the other two still diffused used as fill lights to lift the shadows. Normally I would have the key light at the top and the two fills at left and right, remembering to swivel the whole shebang when switching from landscape to portrait format.

Even with this set up, my default is to dial in +1 stop of exposure compensation otherwise shots will usually be under-exposed. Again though, this does depend on the ambient light levels so I regularly check the LCD and adjust as necessary.

Oddly enough, if I use extension tubes then I don't need the exposure compensation and sometimes even have to dial in a little negative compensation. I confess I don't understand this. Yes, the flashes are slightly closer to the subject but I also lose one stop when using a full set of extension tubes so you'd think it would balance out.

Hope this is of some help.

Dave P.

[marvin]

thanks for taking the time and trouble to provide such a comprehensive response dave, that helps a lot.

as much as anything i'm just pleased everything is working ok. i just need to practice more.

must admit i'm already eyeing up a third sbr200 too lol...there's always something else to buy or at least covet!!!

thanks again
tim

[pressld2]

Originally Posted by marvin

must admit i'm already eyeing up a third sbr200 too lol...

I'm not surprised. Those empty compartments are one of the cleverest bits of marketing I've ever come across!

Dave P.

[marvin]

hi again

@dave do you think a raynox dcr-250 be used with this system?

cheers tim

[pressld2]

Hi Tim,

Not something I've ever tried but I don't see why not. I'm not entirely sure how the Raynox works. If it allows you to get even closer to the subject and still focus then it will make exposure easier as the flash to subject distance will be reduced. If it still focuses at the same distance but magnifies the subject then I would expect it to be pretty much the same with or without the Raynox.

People like Neil and Adam (Ukwildlifeo and Squishy) have much more experience with Raynoxes than me.

Dave P.

[squishy]

You'd most likely have to buy some stepping rings to fit the raynox* inside the ring that holds the flashes (the plastic adaptor that comes with the raynox isn't very good anyway though), but I don't see why it wouldn't work. It might be a bit fiddly taking it on and off in combination with the flashes though.

The raynox reduces the working distance to between 10 and 15cm so it shouldn't be a problem for lighting side of things.

Another point about your original problem, when you use a faster shutter speed than the cameras max sync speed (should be 1/250sec) the amount of flash light could be noticeably reduced since it is firing in a different way (high speed sync) to light the whole exposure (because above 1/250sec, the whole sensor isn't exposed simultaneously).

*assuming a filter thread is still available with the flash ring mounted? If not then there's no way to mount the raynox

[marvin]

thanks again for the help

"*assuming a filter thread is still available with the flash ring mounted? If not then there's no way to mount the raynox"

that's the bit i'm not sure about. will see if i can try it out .

thanks again
tim

[pressld2]

The flash mounting ring doesn't provide a thread for mounting filters. I was hoping that the raynox might provide a thread for the flash mounting ring but it doesn't sound like it.

Dave P.