Sigma 180 Macro (+ Raynox), Field of View Tests

[Lancashire Lad]

Just done some quick tests with the Sigma 180mm macro lens, to see what the actual field of view is at closest focus.

The tests were done with the lens alone, and then with additional accessories.

NB: The tests were purely for determining the field of view, and I made no attempt whatsoever to ensure critical focus, good depth of field, frame alignment etc. etc. (Using a light reflecting aluminium ruler as the subject, and taking the shots indoors with available light, and the tripod resting on thick carpet, perhaps wasn't the best of conditions for such tests, but the results were good enough for what I wanted).

Decided to post them in case the info is of any use for anyone considering similar macro set ups.

All photos taken on a Nikon D80 (Note: - 1.6 crop factor sensor).
Each of the markings in the photos is 1mm apart.

Photo 1 - Sigma 180mm Macro Lens alone.
Photo 2 - Sigma 180mm Macro Lens plus Sigma 1.4x Teleconverter
Photo 3 - Sigma 180mm Macro Lens plus Raynox DCR-150 Supplementary c/u lens.
Photo 4 - Sigma 180mm Macro Lens plus 1.4x Teleconverter plus Raynox DCR-150 c/u lens
Photo 5 - Sigma 180mm Macro Lens plus Raynox DCR-250 Supplementary c/u lens.
Photo 6 - Sigma 180mm Macro Lens plus 1.4x Teleconverter plus Raynox DCR-250 c/u lens
Photo 7 - Sigma 180mm Macro Lens plus Raynox MSN-202 Supplementary c/u lens.
Photo 8 - Sigma 180mm Macro Lens plus 1.4x Teleconverter plus Raynox MSN-202 c/u lens


Photo 1............................Photo 2
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Photo 3............................Photo 4
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Photo 5............................Photo 6
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Photo 7............................Photo 8
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Regards,
Mike.

[Geoff F]

But, I suppose, to get realistic in the field comparison use you should crop, or resize, each image so that the end result is the same size. As you would do if you were photographing an insect, for example.

Does that make sense?

I have tried my 180 with a 1.4x and a 25 mm extension tube combination but found that it was only really acceptable in good light.

[Lancashire Lad]

Hi Geoff,

I understand what you are saying, and all of the test images are "full" frame - straight out of the camera views at the closest focussing distance the particular combination would allow. (No post camera cropping done).

My intended use is "in the field" photography of very small fungi, and I wanted a quick guide (which from these pics. I've now written down as an aide memoir) so that I could gauge how much of the frame (for example) a 4mm wide fruitbody would occupy. Thus removing the potentially trial and error process of which combination of kit to use to get the best "fit" of subject in frame, without having to resort to post camera cropping.

I appreciate that this kind of approach would probably be unworkable for insects, but with static subjects like fungi it doesn't present a much of a problem.

Long multi-second exposures are pretty much the norm, (particularly as I never use flash), and the ability to get greater magnification by use of the Raynox accessories might actually provide better quality images than would cropping. (Although I've not done enough comparisons to come to any conclusion on that as yet).

Certainly the addition of the Raynox lenses looks likely to be useful for image stacked shots of the very tiny stuff.

Regards,
Mike.

[Tobyh]

Hey Mike,

I've only just found this thread and had some questions on using the Raynox add-ons. I looked into using one with a Sigma 180mm but had trouble with tying in the sizes of adapters - I just couldn't find a decent explanation of what I would need to be able to use them on the 180mm. Are you able to shed any light on that please?

Thanks in advance

TobyH

[Lancashire Lad]

Hi Toby,

I use the Raynox lenses with both my Sigma 180mm (which has a 72mm filter thread), and also my Finepix HS10 (which has a 58mm filter thread).

So the step down rings that I bought might not necessarily be the best option for yourself.

Both the Raynox DCR150 and DCR250 have 43mm threads.
The Raynox MSN-202 has a 37mm thread.

Anyway, here's how I do things: -

Unfortunately, I couldn't find any readily available 58 to 43mm stepdown rings so I bought 72 to 58, 58 to 52, and 52 to 43mm

With that combination I can use both DCR150 & 250 with either of my lenses.

I also got got a 58 to 37mm stepdown ring for the MSN-202

All the rings are of aluminium, decent enough quality, by a manufacturer named "Kood", and were obtained by ordering from a company named "JackTheHat" Photographic, which is based in England. Each individual ring cost £5.45. - with no additional costs for P&P.
The list of sizes they offer is pretty comprehensive, but in my case, it was unfortunate that there isn't a single ring from 58/43mm.
Kood Stepping Rings from 25mm - 72mm from Jack The Hat Photographic

NB I have no connection with that company whatsoever, and have only used it twice, for the purchase of these rings, but I am completely satisfied with the service provided thus far. Both deliveries arrived within 4 days of ordering, (In very small padded envelopes that easily fit through the letterbox - no signature required), and I was kept informed by e-mail as to when the orders were being processed and despatched.

Hope that helps.

Regards,
Mike.

[Tobyh]

Mike,

Thanks for the comprehensive answer - I now know what I need to do to try this out.

I was however left with one question (only one!!?) - If I am stopping down from 72mm to 43mm then surely I would end up with massive vignetting on my image straight out of the camera? Or does that not happen for some reason? I see your tests say no post cropping was carried out but this confused me

I am considering this for insects amongst other things but expect long exposures and perhaps inside shots where I can avoid any breeze problems. I'll also try to rig the ring flash with it somehow.

Thanks

TobyH

[Lancashire Lad]

Originally Posted by Tobyh

.....If I am stopping down from 72mm to 43mm then surely I would end up with massive vignetting on my image straight out of the camera? Or does that not happen for some reason? I see your tests say no post cropping was carried out but this confused me ....

Hi Toby, That was my thought before I tried them on the Sigma.
But there is no vignetting at all, when the subject is in focus.

The only thing that I would add, and you probably know this already, is that using these Raynox's (especially with the 180) severely reduces depth of field, so you will need to be very selective in the orientation of your subjects to focal plane.

The 150 is best in this respect, the problem is more pronounced with the 250, and the 202 gives a depth of focus not much thicker than a sheet of paper!

Having said that, if you can manage with them for your type of subject, they give decent enough results. (Flash might help things considerably as far as exposure times go - I shoot fungi and flowers so long exposures aren't generally a problem).

I have had some very good results using them for image stacking too.

Regards,
Mike.

[Tobyh]

Mike,

Much appreciated - I'll have to give it a go and see how it pans out.

Thanks

TobyH