Fuji Finepix macro settings

[Mele]

I have recently bought a fuji finepix S2950.

The 'macro' and 'supermacro' settings are jolly annoying. The camera seems to, as people above describe on other models, refuse to focus in the centre of the picture (point focus) but focuses on the background.

Trying to take flower pictures is incredibly difficult. I end up I taking loads and have to pull the camera back (based on guess work) with my finer partly depressed on the button, to try and get the object in focus and not the background.

My little point and shoot did pretty well, it focussed on the middle of the screen. But this new camera beats it hands down in landscapes and scenery (as I think someone above said). But, as my main enjoyment is taking close-ups of flowers I am a bit irritated with it most of the time these days....

Mel

[DorsetDunk]

I started off with a nikon coolpix 4500 and wish i had stuck with it as it had an excellent macro I moved on to finepix and then Panasonic bridge cameras both were disappointing when using macro
I am not familiar with the series you mention but if i remember rightly i kept the lens at the minimum zoom and used the the screen as a viewer set the focus to manual and moved the camera to focus rather than the buttons or lens

[Lancashire Lad]

Originally Posted by Mele

....The 'macro' and 'supermacro' settings are jolly annoying. The camera seems to, as people above describe on other models, refuse to focus in the centre of the picture (point focus) but focuses on the background....

Unfortunately, this seems to be a common problem with some bridge cameras. (Although I've used several Finepix models and haven't encountered it as yet).

It seems to occur mostly on macro settings as you say, and particularly when there isn't a good degree of contrast between the subject and the background.

This is hard to judge by eye. For example you might quite easily see that the flower which you want to photograph is white, and the background is green - but as far as the camera is concerned - it is not looking at colours, but the amount of contrast between the subjects in frame.

Realistically, when this occurs, the only (relatively easy) solution is to use the focus lock technique. i.e. focus on something which the camera's autofocus will lock on to which is at the same distance as the intended subject, and then half depress the shutter button which locks in that distance. Then whilst holding the button half depressed, point the camera back to the required subject and press the shutter button all the way.

This has it's drawbacks, as correct exposure settings are also locked for whatever you focus lock onto. So it is necessary to focus lock onto something which would need similar exposure to the subject in question.

Fortunately, the finepix range, (along with most bridge type cameras) have exceptionally good depth of focus on macro settings (which are always to be found at the very wide-angle end of their zoom range). So - if you set something like f8 (or more) as the aperture, you will have a reasonable amount of leeway with your focussing technique.

With reference to your mention of photographing flowers, I would suggest focus locking towards the base of, or on a suitably large leaf of, the plant that you are photographing. - And then carefully moving the camera upwards (keeping the same distance) to take the actual photo of the flower.

Regards,
Mike.

[Mele]

Hi DD. Yes the coolpix 4500 - my husband has one and it is superb but I find it hard to use (unless with a tripod of course) as I have a hand tremor - it has no image stabiliser like my old Panasonic point and shoot.

Mike - yes I use the techniques you mention but jolly annoying all the same. I am trying out my husband's Panasonic bridge camera this weekend to see if I can get any better luck with macro on that. When we take photos of birds from say a hide (on zoom) he clearly gets better shots (less noise, brighter, better focus), but my macro shots are generally better (I think that is due to sheer effort though on my part). I do get a few decent shots with mine but it is a real effort and much is down to luck - have to take heaps and delete loads. Which takes time.

I am still finding my way round the camera; it is a step on the way to buying a DSLR, so I tend to use the auto settings at the moment...

Mel

[Dorts]

Mel, not the ideal solution, but one way you can overcome this is to place your hand where the flower is, focus on your hand and then remove it to take the photo. It does work, though of course not ideal.
Dorts.

[Mele]

Hi Dorts
Yup - I do that too! Or use a large leaf...
M

[Kayleigh]

I have an opteka lens that screws onto the finpix S9600 this was only a cheap lens but made a big difference, the focus point on the finepix is out so you have to focus to one side this is a pain but take a few shots either side of the subject..

[Mele]

Hi Kayleigh
Yes - the focus is not in the middle of the screen as it claims

I am managing to get used to the camera but as you say it is a real pain.

It is giving me some time to get used to handling a slightly bigger camera again (I used to use a Nikon FE and still have it, poor old thing, as I loved it so much) and next year I will go for a DSLR (after reading quite a few threads on this forum no doubt.)

As with most natural history photography, to get a good shot it's about patience (although in this case patience with the camera not the subject). Not as easy as I thought a bridge camera would be.

Mel

[nightshade]

I don't know the cameras, but a camera I do use has a minimum focus of 10" on the macro setting and should be used in the 'P'program setting not in 'A'auto. 'A'auto focuses on whatever is nearest the lense on most cameras.