Photographing Fungi

[GerryNick2]

I find capturing fungi in their natural habitat using natural light and still retaining true colours quite challenging.

Looking through the Gallery and fungi threads the quality of fungi images vary quite considerably with all the typical problems, burnt out highlights,colours not true, noise,poor composition, all the problems that I strive to overcome. Equally there are some terrific shots which make me green with envy and worthy of publication in any reference book.

Given that there has been quite a lot of reference to fungi photography tools and techniques etc. I thought it would make an interesting and educational thread in its own right and provide novices like me with useful tips for improvement and enable a higher consistency of successful shots.

My set up at the moment for fungi is an EOS 30D and EF 24-70mm f2.8L USM lense. I use a Velbon CF tripod with removeable centre column and Giottos ball head,to get down low, am also experimenting with a bean bag and angle finder. Tend to leave a UV filter on the lense at all times.I use aperature priority and f16 with slow shutter speeds,remote shutter release and no flash. Have been making more use of the histogram and highlight alert and compensating to avoid burnt out highlights, though do lose a bit of detail in the shadows.

Be great to hear from others on their kit and approach to this subject matter, for example whats the best lense focal length, how to get low enough etc.

Gerry

p.s.hopefully this won't degenerate into a what should and what should not be included in the Gallery as unfortunately is so often the case.

[carlj]

Gerry, have yet to get out in field this year for fungi shots, but intend to use beanbag. And reflector/diffuser to control the light rather than flash.

[Alan]

I use two methods. One using a macro (Tamron 90mm), and the other using a telephoto (Sigma 300mm Tele Macro).

Sharper images are usually captured with the macro, but as you’re further away with the telephoto (1.2 – 2m), you don’t have to get down so low. I use a tripod for both with the centre column cut-down so I can get nice and low. It just depends on the situation at the time.

I usually use aperture priority at F11 – F16, and plus or minus the exposure compensation. ISO is usually at 200-400. I don’t tend to use flash much as it can create sharp shadows unless you use a diffuser. A reflector is handy for dark corners. I use the self-timer at 2 seconds also.

[jerryh]

Hi Gerry,
I feel exactly as you do. I've been out several times this season trying to match some of those fantastic shots in the Gallery, but have not yet succeeded.

I work in a very similar way to you, too.
30D, 17-85 IS or Sigma 150 macro, on a Benbo a manfrotto head, and shoot with a remote release and angle-finder. At least f/16 and loooong exposures.
I also use the histogram and don't use flash, but do occasionally fill in with a white reflector.
Oner thing you didn't mention is mirror lock-up (custom function 12, from memory). This allows to whole system to settle from the mirror movement before you make the exposure.


I've been studying the Gallery, and have a couple of ideas for my next trip out.
I'll be concentrating on my composition and actually opening the aperture to get only the depth of field the shot requires. This (I hope) will optimise the background and give me as short an exposure as I can get.
One of the things I've been trying is to ensure that the tripod is well grounded. I have a good solid tripod and head, but suspect that the whole kit is moving on what is often a very soft surface. I even wonder if my being crouched on the same surface next to the tripod is moving the whole thing.

Jerry

[GerryNick2]

[quote=jerryh]
Oner thing you didn't mention is mirror lock-up (custom function 12, from memory). This allows to whole system to settle from the mirror movement before you make the exposure.

A new one on me, will have to look into this.

Great stuff, keep it coming.

Gerry

[cybershot]

What a good idea for a forum topic!

As Gerry, and others, who have given me support, advice and encouragement, will realise this year marks my first 'foray' into fungi photography and I am well and truly hooked.

This website is provides a wealth of information about the problems of identification and a good image is part and parcel of that process, so sharing tips about capturing those crucial features is greatly appreciated by one and all.

I usually head for the woods armed with my EOS 10D sporting a Sigma 70-300mm APO DG and mounted on a monopod. A Canon EF 17-40mm L in a belt mounted pouch gives me the scope I need. Depending on the lighting and positioning of our fascinating subjects I am prepared to get down and dirty for the sake of art and science. However recent discussion in the forums has me seriously considering rests/bean bags, angle finders and remote leads (maybe for next season by which time these old bones of my 6' 4" frame will be less ameanable to foraging gymnastics).

I favour a tendancy to under expose to maintain the saturation of the vast pallette of colours and vary the depth of field according to subject matter. Shooting in RAW, I am not in the slightest bit averse to post processing in Photoshop.

My main handicap is the clod hopping persistent inquisitiveness of my year old ridgeback, Chaka, who accompanies me on all forays!

Happy clicking and keep those handy hints coming.

David

[cybershot]

(Edited duplicate post)

[SteveHL]

I use a Sigma SD10 in combo with either a Sigma 150mm or a 50mm macro.
Most of the time I will put down a servial bag (obtained from camping shops), its a heavy duty plastic bag 7 ft long and 3 ft wide. This gives me plenty of room to work in and space for the gear without it sitting on wet ground. Most of my work is done using a 4kg beanbag from Wildlife Watching supplies which has a groove down the middle. This allows me to nestel the lens in the groove.
I shoot in RAW and AP usually between F11 and F22 depending on light levels and the size of subject. I just lay out on the servival bag get in position, check both the forground and background ( clean up small objects especially light coloured twigs/ pine needles). Then its lay out flat and either rest on the beangag or the servival bag but move the beanbag up against the camera to help stop any movement and gently apply pressure to the shutter until it fires.
For those using tripods make sure its seated well and can't move, a good way of doing this is to use your camera bag as an anchour, if possible hang it under your tripod the weight helps keep it in place.
I have a selection of reflectors and a defusser and a novoflex rod support system that's like having an assistant about to hold reflectors etc.
regards

[nightshade]

Try this Studio Lighting - Flash Mounted homemade DIY Softbox | DIYPhotography.net
Reflectors are very useful especially with soft light

[Jon]

Originally Posted by jerryh

Hi Gerry,
I feel exactly as you do. I've been out several times this season trying to match some of those fantastic shots in the Gallery, but have not yet succeeded.

I work in a very similar way to you, too.
30D, 17-85 IS or Sigma 150 macro, on a Benbo a manfrotto head, and shoot with a remote release and angle-finder. At least f/16 and loooong exposures.
I also use the histogram and don't use flash, but do occasionally fill in with a white reflector.
Oner thing you didn't mention is mirror lock-up (custom function 12, from memory). This allows to whole system to settle from the mirror movement before you make the exposure.


I've been studying the Gallery, and have a couple of ideas for my next trip out.
I'll be concentrating on my composition and actually opening the aperture to get only the depth of field the shot requires. This (I hope) will optimise the background and give me as short an exposure as I can get.
One of the things I've been trying is to ensure that the tripod is well grounded. I have a good solid tripod and head, but suspect that the whole kit is moving on what is often a very soft surface. I even wonder if my being crouched on the same surface next to the tripod is moving the whole thing.

Jerry

When I set custom Function 12, it works for every exposure. On my old EOS 10 I could use the self timer for every shot I selected, i.e. it was not permanently set, so I would use it purely for self timed shots. On the EOS 20D it seems to be set permanenently when selected. Do you have the same problem? The point is when taking certain birds it may be possible to use self timer with mirror lock but when I go to ordinary drive the mirror lock is still on, if I don't remember then Imay , indeed have lost a god shot. Jon