Flower photography

[VinceS]

Been out over the weekend trying to photograph flowers, would appreciate some advice. Attached, hopefully, is a photo from my foray.

[kielder]

Here is an image of a Southern Marsh Orchid, it does look like yours, I am no expert, but have seen a fair few now in this forum, although there are many hybrids, see what you think: http://lnr.cambridge.gov.uk/uploads/DSCN2486.JPG

[VinceS]

Hi Kielder, to me they do look similar but I do not know much about flowers never mind orchids.

Vince

[Steve S]

Here’s some basic advice that I was given a long time ago for flower photography.

Photograph as good a specimen as you can.

Either go in real close or step well back and go for the broad view.

Soft, bright overcast lighting is best.

In harsh light try using fill flash on a back-lit plant.

Hope this helps.

Steve.

[Bub-les]

If you include the exif data with your photo then others on here will be better able to help and advise you
Barbara

[Hobjob]

Originally Posted by Steve S

Here’s some basic advice that I was given a long time ago for flower photography.

Photograph as good a specimen as you can.

Either go in real close or step well back and go for the broad view.

Soft, bright overcast lighting is best.

In harsh light try using fill flash on a back-lit plant.

Hope this helps.

Steve.

If the photos is for ID purposes rather than art, then always include close up of stem, bracts, fruit (if present), whole plant and leaves, including basal leaves.

If windy then consider staking the plant - old arieal, bamboo, or whatever, piece of string and paper clip to put round stem to stabilize it.

Your photo does not look absolutely sharp - was the speed fast enough?

To freeze a moving flower also consider flash, which will allow decent high f-stop to keep good depth of focus. Close up you will need to then underexpose. Use a reflector too to spread the light (foil, dull side out, on piece of cardboard is very cheap), or a diffuser on the flash - cheap one by using a piece of Kleenex with rubber band.

As always the "golden hour" -- one hour after sunrise and one hour before sunset -- gives the best artistic light.

Having said all that, I'm not usually that careful

[VinceS]

Thanks for the replies and comments. As regards the exif data, I have probably lost that in trying to reduce the photo to upload. I will have to look a bit more closely at the software.

Vince

[Bub-les]

try a freebie called PIXresizer for reducing photos for WAB it can save the exif data. I find it very useful as you can easily choose the size you want.
Barbara

[Geoff F]

Additional to what has already been recommended; I would say always use a tripod and if you want true colour you will have to use a Custom White Balance. I know it can be a little bit of a fiddle to set up but once you get the hang of things it doesn't take too long and can make all the difference, particularly with blues or magentas.

[kielder]

Picasa is a great one too, also free!