How to sharpen images.

Kayleigh · #1 (**permalink**) 26-05-2011, 09:19 PM

How do I sharpen my images.
I have tried to do this but ended up making the pic worse than the original, how far do you go what am I aiming to to do..
A lot of the macro shots are not as sharp as I hoped..

Thank you for any tips and help..

Elaine

marvin · #2 (**permalink**) 26-05-2011, 09:31 PM

hi

if you are using the canon 100mm macro sharpness shouldn't be a problem. some example shots would help as something else, for example camera shake, might be the issue.

cheers
tim

Kayleigh · #3 (**permalink**) 26-05-2011, 09:39 PM

Yes getting the camera stable is one of the issues..
Can I get this any sharper..

This one is sharp enough..

marvin · #4 (**permalink**) 26-05-2011, 09:53 PM

hi again

i don't think sharpening will help. it looks like shake/motion and maybe focus issues.

because of the small apertures needed for dof in macro, its often difficult (but not impossible) to get a fast enough shutter speeds when handholding. that's why lots of people use supports and external flash.

macro photography is difficult. keep going and experimenting and your really good results will get even better, though you may find external flash necessary in all but the best conditions regardless of how good your technique becomes.

cheers
tim

marvin · #5 (**permalink**) 26-05-2011, 10:14 PM

hi again

looked at the data from the pic and iso 1600 is high and results in image degradation from noise amongst other things and shutter speed of 1/60 is ambitious for handholding a 100mm lens. there probably just wasn't enough natural light to allow you to use optimum settings...thats where flash would be helpful.

i had a very quick mess around with the shot in lightroom but it didn't make much difference.

tim

glsammy · #6 (**permalink**) 26-05-2011, 10:36 PM

I try and use at least F16 to get as much DOF as possible. Your shot was using F10, plus there's some evidence of movement. I don't like the shutter to drop much below the sync speed so I more often than not shoot in manual mode, 1/250sec shutter and F16.
To get the F16 I pretty well always use diffused flash for my macro shots, especially with such small subjects as these ants.

Trik · #7 (**permalink**) 26-05-2011, 11:12 PM

I frequently use the High Pass method of sharpening, rather than Unsharp Mask. With your photo, Kayleigh, I used two High Passes; one at radius 2 and the other at radius 1. Radius 1 was combined using merge mode Overlay, and radius 2 merging with Soft Light. For even greater emphasis I used a Tone Curve on radius 1 to bring up the contrast. It hasn`t come up too bad, IMHO.

I use Corel PhotoPaint X3 (not be confused with PaintShopPro), so PhotoShop, for example, may produce different results at the above settings and would need adjusting.

Trik

Ollie · #8 (**permalink**) 27-05-2011, 01:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glsammy

I try and use at least F16 to get as much DOF as possible. Your shot was using F10, plus there's some evidence of movement. I don't like the shutter to drop much below the sync speed so I more often than not shoot in manual mode, 1/250sec shutter and F16.
To get the F16 I pretty well always use diffused flash for my macro shots, especially with such small subjects as these ants.

Completely agree with Graham on this. I rarely shoot below F14 to get the depth of field. Diffused flash is something I regard as essential with macro. It not only helps to freeze motion blur but also helps to cut out shadows as well.

You haven't done badly with the ant. An ant is quite a small subject if you aren't very experienced. I would also use a support if not a tripod at least a monopod. Macro by it's nature can result in some rather slow shutter speeds making some kind of support to stop camera blur a must.

Above all keep practising Elaine and you will get their. Keep asking for advice as well. Best of luck.

Kayleigh · #9 (**permalink**) 27-05-2011, 10:02 AM

Thanks everyone,

I do try to use whatever support is available at the time like the "wasp thing" there was a handy plant pot next to it so I supported my arm on there its not always easy to use a tripod when the thing your trying to photograph is moving about how do you get round this problem..
Also someone recommended a ringflash and said I needed to use the software to help with the noise but that looks too bulky as tend to use the macro in the garden and it looks expensive so might just get a standard flash that fits on the camera can you get the built in flash to work in macro mode I had though of a torch just to lighten the subject from the shadows.
I had the ISO and the WB set to auto should I try to use them on manual to have more control..
I use f10 as any higher and the noise gets worse and impossible if hand held.
I will have a practice in the garden next time the sun is out with my tripod as it goes quite low I have tried it before but had it fully extended and it didn't make any difference as it was not that stable its a portable thing so not as sturdy as some heavier ones but its telescopic so is more stable when on the smallest setting.
I have a tiny tripod but that would be OK for things on the floor not on leaves about 3ft high over a pond, insects are never in a accessible place dont you find..

Then fly off just before you have got them in focus and pressed the shutter..

I feel better now at not having to learn all about digital manipulation and can work on getting the best from the camera without relying on software you cant make an image better if the image is not that clear to start with.
I have set the camera to reduce noise and have not noticed any difference.
I also tried mirror lock up and the focus point was way off it missed the subject completely it was worse than without so I gave that up.

Cheers Elaine

shadowx · #10 (**permalink**) 27-05-2011, 11:43 AM

With regards to flash you cant use an unmodified on-camera flash. The options are a dedicated macro flash (expensive, or hack a DIY one which could be messy) an off camera flash with diffusers/reflectors (bulky, hard to use "in the field") or an on board flash with diffusers/reflectors. If you have an hour or so indoors (and assuming your camera has a build in flash) get some white cloth, white tissue, paper, white plastic etc... and set up an example shot on a table, anything will do, a coin, a dead/fake insect etc... using the flash hold a bit of paper/tissue/fabric etc.. in front of it and see what sort of lighting you get.

You wont get perfect results due to the angle of the light but you should get a softer flash with less harsh shadows which will let you ramp up the shutter speed and keep the ISO lower.

If you are willing and have a slow moving subject (caterpillar, insect eggs...) you can buy a cheap light tent off ebay and pull the leaf off the plant to photograph the creature and then carefully let it go back on to the plant. The light tent will let you bounce your flash around inside and you can get really good lighting from it.