tiny gardens

[sweet rocket]

Thanks for having a look. c.diversa seems deserve its name. The scale of podetia in particular seems to be highly variable. The photograph is probably at the limit of my lens. I'm considering an extender for my camera. I also read something about focus stacking which sounded really interesting.I may also have to resort to carting my tripod around but that's a bit of an encumbrance

[AlanS]

Focus stacking has its limitations I am afraid. Everything - camera, tripod, specimen, all have to be absolutely still, and then you need a focussing rail on the tripod so the camera can be moved back and forward, accurately, by minute amounts. No doubt it can be done with crustose species, but the slightest breeze is going to move a Cladonia about.

I only use focus stacking for indoor shots, when I am taking close ups with a zoom stereo microscope, which I can focus up and down by small amounts and know everything is rock solid. Even then, it doesn't work with Cladonia as the specimen itself is likely bending and flexing very slightly as it loses water and the result of focus stacking is a series of ghost images. [Yes, I could dry the specimen completely, but then it is a dried specimen, not what I am trying to photograph.]

Even when I have a series of acceptable images, the definition of the focal point of the final composite photograph may not be as good as a single image critically focused on that point. On my website, some close-up images are the result of focus stacking, but more often than not, I reject the result and choose my best single image.

Outside, I am still trying to find the best small camera for lichen photography. Manual focus is rarely good enough on these cameras, and even if the spot autofocus is generally good, it can be messed up by high levels of reflection from the lichen. [Even though not usually shiny, lichens of exposed surfaces do have to reflect a lot of light to avoid damage.] I have had good results from small Olympus cameras except that they are weak in the yellow-green part of the spectrum, the colour of usnic acid in lichens, and many species, notably of Usnea, Ramalina, come out much too grey.

For critical work I have given in and started to use a flash unit with my DSLR, plus heavy-weight ultra-macro lens, which requires a heavy duty tripod or monopod, and the result is I only take photographs of lichens next to where I can park! (Well, near enough ...)

Simplest answer is to have a high capacity card and then take multiple duplicate photographs, and hope that at least one is critically sharp!

Alan

[Jim Ford]

Originally Posted by AlanS

Focus stacking has its limitations I am afraid. Everything - camera, tripod, specimen, all have to be absolutely still, and then you need a focussing rail on the tripod so the camera can be moved back and forward, accurately, by minute amounts. No doubt it can be done with crustose species, but the slightest breeze is going to move a Cladonia about.

I'm nearing finishing my home-made automated stacking rail. I only need to machine the ends of the lead-screw to take the bearings and fit it. There's also a bit of 'polishing' of the software needed. I showed the 'prototype' in this thread:

Problems with image stacking

I'm determined to use it in the field for orchids and am aware of the need for stillness. I'm thinking along the lines of using a small tent made out of transparent film.

Jim

[sweet rocket]

Originally Posted by AlanS

Focus stacking has its limitations I am afraid. Everything - camera, tripod, specimen, all have to be absolutely still, and then you need a focussing rail on the tripod so the camera can be moved back and forward, accurately, by minute amounts. No doubt it can be done with crustose species, but the slightest breeze is going to move a Cladonia about.

I only use focus stacking for indoor shots, when I am taking close ups with a zoom stereo microscope, which I can focus up and down by small amounts and know everything is rock solid. Even then, it doesn't work with Cladonia as the specimen itself is likely bending and flexing very slightly as it loses water and the result of focus stacking is a series of ghost images. [Yes, I could dry the specimen completely, but then it is a dried specimen, not what I am trying to photograph.]

Even when I have a series of acceptable images, the definition of the focal point of the final composite photograph may not be as good as a single image critically focused on that point. On my website, some close-up images are the result of focus stacking, but more often than not, I reject the result and choose my best single image.

Outside, I am still trying to find the best small camera for lichen photography. Manual focus is rarely good enough on these cameras, and even if the spot autofocus is generally good, it can be messed up by high levels of reflection from the lichen. [Even though not usually shiny, lichens of exposed surfaces do have to reflect a lot of light to avoid damage.] I have had good results from small Olympus cameras except that they are weak in the yellow-green part of the spectrum, the colour of usnic acid in lichens, and many species, notably of Usnea, Ramalina, come out much too grey.

For critical work I have given in and started to use a flash unit with my DSLR, plus heavy-weight ultra-macro lens, which requires a heavy duty tripod or monopod, and the result is I only take photographs of lichens next to where I can park! (Well, near enough ...)

Simplest answer is to have a high capacity card and then take multiple duplicate photographs, and hope that at least one is critically sharp!

Alan

Thanks for all your comments /advice
I use a canon eos 400D and I've arrived at the system you describe in the last sentence. I've found the colour to be fairly accurate. The images correlate well with my memory of the subjects
Initially, the camera, was set up to tackle landscape, my main interest. Recently, when trying to record "finds", whether fungi or lichens the limitation of this all purpose lens is becoming a source of annoyance.
Not wanting to be weighed down by equipment on walks, I'm considering an "extension" to assist the present lens as a compromise solution.

[sweet rocket]

Originally Posted by Jim Ford

I'm nearing finishing my home-made automated stacking rail. I only need to machine the ends of the lead-screw to take the bearings and fit it. There's also a bit of 'polishing' of the software needed. I showed the 'prototype' in this thread:

Problems with image stacking

I'm determined to use it in the field for orchids and am aware of the need for stillness. I'm thinking along the lines of using a small tent made out of transparent film.

Jim

Sounds very professional. I hope your system serves well.
Its all becoming a bit theoretical here. We are having snow and sleet showers. However, last year at this time we had 3 feet of snow. I remember last year only too well and how long the snow hung around.
Never mind, you'll be all set for the spring!
I'm going to check out the your thread on image stacking now.