Do i need a polarizer on a macro lens?

[steveo]

i have a Hoya Pro1 circ-polarizer which i bought for my FZ50 when i was using it for landscapes.

i'm now selling the FZ50 as i have bought a Nikon D80, i've also bought a Tamron 90mm marco lens and it just happens it's the same 55mm thread size as the FZ50, so the polarizer fits on. but do i really need such a polarizer for close up work? or should i just wait for a nice bright sunny day and see if it makes any difference?

[MalcolmX]

keep the filter and uses as necessary macro lenses are not always used as macro

[Kerry]

I am about to buy a polarizer for macro work as I take many shots near water and the sea. Without the polarizer there is too much glare for the shots to come out well. Last week I took over 200 macro shots around the rock pools and not one came out usable due to glare.

Kerry

[steveo]

thanks Kerry and MalocomX, i'kk keep it then

[HowlinWolf]

Originally Posted by Kerry

I am about to buy a polarizer for macro work as I take many shots near water and the sea. Without the polarizer there is too much glare for the shots to come out well. Last week I took over 200 macro shots around the rock pools and not one came out usable due to glare.

Kerry

Kerry,
Be aware that polarizers give the strongest effect when used at 90 degrees to the sun, and that to remove reflections from water, the incoming light must have an incidence angle of 30 degrees, and the camera angle must equal it. With back-lit subjects, a polarizer will have no effect.
Bear in mind also, that this filter will suck up to two f stops of light from reaching your camera sensor/film, therefore increasing the need to set a higher ISO, reduce shutter speeds (tricky if your subject has any movement, for example, plants swaying in a breeze) or using a larger aperture on the lens to get your desired exposure, the last of which will reduce your depth of field.

HW

[eeyore]

in kerry's case you might get better results from using a light tent or even a sheet of muslin or similar to break the direct light and diffuse it - as well as cutting glare this will eliminate harsh shadows making for a more even light effect - admittely less light will reach the subject but without the polarizer you will have two more stops to play with.

that said if you are shooting underwater creatures the polarizer is very useful to cutthe reflection from the surface

as far as seashore shooting goes i would also advise you to look at getting a waterproof or spray cover for the camera if you do this a lot - salt air and spray and electronics do not mix

[nightshade]

I like rock pools,and found the salt spray thing a problem
I just used an elasticated sleeve from an old nylon cagoule
shading the water (children are useful for this) is good

[Kerry]

Originally Posted by HowlinWolf

Kerry,
Be aware that polarizers give the strongest effect when used at 90 degrees to the sun, and that to remove reflections from water, the incoming light must have an incidence angle of 30 degrees, and the camera angle must equal it. With back-lit subjects, a polarizer will have no effect.
Bear in mind also, that this filter will suck up to two f stops of light from reaching your camera sensor/film, therefore increasing the need to set a higher ISO, reduce shutter speeds (tricky if your subject has any movement, for example, plants swaying in a breeze) or using a larger aperture on the lens to get your desired exposure, the last of which will reduce your depth of field.

HW

Thanks HW for this info. I had just got hold of a book on filters called The Photographers Guide to Filters by Lee Frost and he hadn't mentioned about the angle, but I had read it somewhere else. With regards to the f stops of light, if the polarizer is in place when I do the meter reading on my Canon 400D won't the camera adjust for that?

Kerry

[Kerry]

Originally Posted by eeyore

in kerry's case you might get better results from using a light tent or even a sheet of muslin or similar to break the direct light and diffuse it - as well as cutting glare this will eliminate harsh shadows making for a more even light effect - admittely less light will reach the subject but without the polarizer you will have two more stops to play with.

that said if you are shooting underwater creatures the polarizer is very useful to cutthe reflection from the surface

as far as seashore shooting goes i would also advise you to look at getting a waterproof or spray cover for the camera if you do this a lot - salt air and spray and electronics do not mix

Thanks for the suggestions especially with regard to the waterproof spray cover; I shall make that purchase a priority.

Kerry

[eeyore]

Originally Posted by Kerry

Thanks for the suggestions especially with regard to the waterproof spray cover; I shall make that purchase a priority.

Kerry

a good move - though it doesnt need to be anything pricey ( you can spend a lot on these - mine was over 100 notes but that is for extreme conditions) for use on a beach a ziploc plastic bag with a hole cut for the lens , or as nightshade suggests a sleve cut off an old cagoule ought to be up to the job.

it is also a good idea to not change lenses on the beach unless absolutely necessary to cut down on the chance of salt spray getting inside the camera - and also to thoroughly clean your lens elements and camera exterior on your return home. Another good tip is to put a skylight or UV filter on the front of all your lenses - these are seentially clear but will protect the front element from spray and equally importantly from wind blown sand