Good Makes Of Chainsaw's

[ChrisJB]

Originally Posted by The Woodman

There's only one brand to consider - that's Husqvarna.
Doubtless I'll upset the Germanophiles by saying that.

Absolutely. In my old ranger days that's what we used and they were excellent. You can even get one with a heated handle. I always made sure I grabbed that one first.

Regards, Chris

[muldonach]

Originally Posted by Jez

I'm looking to get myself fully wallyfied with a chainsaw. So at some point I'll be need of a good one. Problem is I know ninnimuggins about Chainsaws, what are good makes to look for & which ones should I stay clear of ?!? If any of you would be so decent to point me in the right direction I'd be really grateful!

Thanks a lot

Jez

The actual make is immaterial - I use both stihl and husqvarna from 39-120cc but also read excellent reports on Makita and other makes.

The important thing is to get something that suits you personally and suits the task at hand. It is a waste of money to buy a full professional spec if you are going to be cutting light firewood on an occasional basis. Equally if you buy an amateur spec and take it pulp felling don't be surprised when bits fall off it.

Anything less than 45cc will struggle on decent sized timber and anything more than 70cc is getting a bit heavy for anything more than downhand work.

If you are actually felling and snedding then a short bar (15")is an advantage, if simply crosscutting then a slightly longer bar of 18"-22" (within the capacity of the motor) will be advantageous. Chain sharpness is vital

If you are thinking of secondhand then - make sure the compression is good and that the chain brake and stop switch are in working order. It is still common to see unbraked models for sale at auction - don't touch them with a barge pole!

see Arbtalk.co.uk
Chainsaws and chainsaw accessories, specialising in Husqvarna chainsaws - Chainsaw Specialists

no connection to either but the forum on arbtalk is interesting and I have good customer experience with the second site.

Are you actually planning on taking up paid employment with a chainsaw? if not then I would be a bit sceptical as to the value of attending a training course. There is quite a debate ongoing at the moment as to the relevance of what is being taught and much of it I am afraid is simply nonsense in a working environment. If you are simply thinking of cutting your own firewood then a morning or two with a practiced operator and a demonstration of chain sharpening would probably be worthwhile before you splash out £hundreds on training.

cheers
mac

[muldonach]

Sorry - also meant to add that heated handles are literally worth their weight in gold - I would not consider buying a new saw without them.

Cheers
mac

[ron1863]

I have a McCulloch petrol chainsaw, have had it for years and never had a problem.

If like Mac says, you are only using it for light work then it is ideal and inexpensive.

[Jim Ford]

Unless you're going to earn your living with one, I don't think it's worth paying for a professional grade. I bought one from Aldi and it's fine for the 2 or 3 times a year I need one. It cost about that of a weekend's hire of one and will have paid for itself many times over by the time it's worn out.

Having the strength to control a saw is everything. In spite of having safety features like an anti-kickback bar and chain brake, they will do unexpected things and you need to have confidence in your strength to control it on these occasions.

Jim

[Jez]

Originally Posted by muldonach

The actual make is immaterial - I use both stihl and husqvarna from 39-120cc but also read excellent reports on Makita and other makes.

The important thing is to get something that suits you personally and suits the task at hand. It is a waste of money to buy a full professional spec if you are going to be cutting light firewood on an occasional basis. Equally if you buy an amateur spec and take it pulp felling don't be surprised when bits fall off it.

Anything less than 45cc will struggle on decent sized timber and anything more than 70cc is getting a bit heavy for anything more than downhand work.

If you are actually felling and snedding then a short bar (15")is an advantage, if simply crosscutting then a slightly longer bar of 18"-22" (within the capacity of the motor) will be advantageous. Chain sharpness is vital

If you are thinking of secondhand then - make sure the compression is good and that the chain brake and stop switch are in working order. It is still common to see unbraked models for sale at auction - don't touch them with a barge pole!

see Arbtalk.co.uk
Chainsaws and chainsaw accessories, specialising in Husqvarna chainsaws - Chainsaw Specialists

no connection to either but the forum on arbtalk is interesting and I have good customer experience with the second site.

Are you actually planning on taking up paid employment with a chainsaw? if not then I would be a bit sceptical as to the value of attending a training course. There is quite a debate ongoing at the moment as to the relevance of what is being taught and much of it I am afraid is simply nonsense in a working environment. If you are simply thinking of cutting your own firewood then a morning or two with a practiced operator and a demonstration of chain sharpening would probably be worthwhile before you splash out £hundreds on training.

cheers
mac

Originally Posted by muldonach

Sorry - also meant to add that heated handles are literally worth their weight in gold - I would not consider buying a new saw without them.

Cheers
mac

Originally Posted by ron1863

I have a McCulloch petrol chainsaw, have had it for years and never had a problem.

If like Mac says, you are only using it for light work then it is ideal and inexpensive.

Noted and very much appreciated, many thanks for taking the time to post!!!

[Jez]

Originally Posted by Jim Ford

Unless you're going to earn your living with one, I don't think it's worth paying for a professional grade. I bought one from Aldi and it's fine for the 2 or 3 times a year I need one. It cost about that of a weekend's hire of one and will have paid for itself many times over by the time it's worn out.

Having the strength to control a saw is everything. In spite of having safety features like an anti-kickback bar and chain brake, they will do unexpected things and you need to have confidence in your strength to control it on these occasions.

Jim

Thankyou also Jim. I'm taking every post in to great consideration!

[JeffH]

I'm only an occasional chainsaw user (for logging and general garden maintenance - we have lots of trees!) but I' m now on my 5th or 6th machine in about 25 years. I've had several makes/types and, as others have said, Stihl and Husqvarna are undoubtedly the best on the market.
Needless to say, full safety equipment/clothing and some training is essential before starting up a potentially deadly machine

Jeff

[Karlos78]

Hi, check out the HSE website Information about health and safety at work, type chainsaw into the search engine. There is some v.good stuff relating to chainsaw safety, mostly aimed at pro's but equally relevant for the occasional user. Umm sorry to spoil the fun, no amount of reading substitutes proper practical training. regards karl.

[Jez]

Not at all Karl, thanks for the link! Yep it's the practice I'm looking forward too