Quote:
Originally Posted by nightshade  If you are happy with them just go ahead and use them,Inpro are on the interweb probably along with reviews |
Quite agree
If you are not happy with them, then compare them with others.
Whilst many shops will let you do this, especially optic shops on
reserves (RSPB have many), be very careful.
Spotty teenagers in highstreet shops are clueless.
Kindly retired volunteers who own swaro's may not really
understand the difference in the cheaper end of the ranges.
The best way to compare is
- * Take your time
Do not be pressurized by shopkeepers
- * Ask to try other peoples' in a hide. Most birders with
expensive pairs are only too happy to let people do this.
By the time most people shell out for expensive pairs they
have usually had several pairs of cheaper models !!!!
- * Compare on a cloudy, poor light day *********
If not possible, peer into shadows.
Many bins give good results in good light, but the "better"
models gather more light and this can only be seen when
tested in poor light.
- * Compare on a sunny day!!!
This is less important, but in the cheaper ranges, some bins
give flaring.
- * Do not compare by looking through the glass of a shop window.
If they won't let you go outside, they don't know what they are
doing.
- * If the bins are of different weights, then steady them
on a tree, door jamb etc..
You will get better at holding bins steady with practice -
a lot, lot better, so don't allow a slightly heavier pair to
seem worse than they are.
"Good glass weighs more than poor glass" is a fairly good rule
of thumb.
- * You must focus each set of bins for YOUR eyes - even if
your eyes are balanced, identical bins from one manuacturer
may be marginally differerent even in the same model.
It is ridiculous to thnk you can assess bins when they are not set
for your eyes, but I see this happening all the time at my local reserve.
- * If it is not obvious how to do this, get the shop to show you.
e.g. Swaroskvi's have a simple but hidden sytem.
In fact if the shop does not show you I would worry about their
knowledge.
- * Focus using your left eye ONLY first.
Then close the left eye and using the secondary
focussing method focus the right eye on its own, looking
at the same thing that you looked at with the left eye.
If you have trouble closing one eye at a time, then use
a tissue or hankie.
- * Compare them by looking at something that is _not_ moving
A sign in shade is a good test.
Consider printing off a "Snellen" chart (the chart opticians use)
and taking it with you.
Look for clarity at the centre AND the edge.
- * Look at a vertical or horizontal sharp edge, preferably
with a high light contrast. Colour shadings (usually blue or
purplish) at the edge are a bad sign. "Chromatic aberration"
(chimneys are good for this)
- * Magnification
8 times or 10 times is the most popular for birders.
Personally I find x10 too much; I shake a bit and too narrow
field of view.
- * Comfort in the hand is very important - some just feel
good, othes don't. Leica / Swaroskvi owners usually have
made their final choice on this.
My missus has a tiny but excellent pair of Leica's that
are as optically good as my RSPB HG range. She can't stand using mine
("too heavy") and I can't stand using hers ("too light") !!!
- * Do the eye rings feel comfortable?
Some are hard, some soft, and some have shaped edges
to reduce light creeping in round the corner (e.g Zeiss).
- * If a non-spectacle wearer, do the eye rings stay out on
their own?
(Tip - mine don't, but a piece of narrow velcro makes sure
they do!!)
- * If you DO wear spectacles, what is the "eye-relief" measurement?
This is the distance from eye-pice lens to front of eye; if not
at least 12mm you are probably not seeing all the image.
- * How close do they focus? If you are into insects and flowers then
close focussing may be important for you - for this 2 metres
is useful, though 3m just about OK.
- * How wide is the angle of view - it is harder to find a bird with
only a narrow cone of view.
(though with practice this also improves VASTLY.)
The Objective elns diameter (the lens away from the eyepiece)
gives a clue to this.
25mm for small pocket bins
42mm is probably commonest size for birders
50mm should be good for low light.
- * Are they waterproof?
Does this matter to you?
- * Are they easy to focus? Will you be able to focus in
gloves if you are not just a fair weather user?
- * Are they rubber covered, which is claimed to make them
more robust and less liable to being upset when
knocked.
- * Prisms.
"Older style" "Porro" prisms have a step in the binoculars.
Straight, more modern looking have the prism in the
main cylinder.
"Porros" are easier to manufacture as they have a larger prism,
and slightly wider 3D effect. Some don't feel they look so cool
but there are some excellent examples.
The most expensive ranges don't have many porro options.
- * Some have built in compass - sailors like these.
- * Image stabilized bins are now available, though I have
no real experience of these.
- * On the whole bigger entry lenses means more light and
better results.
- * Zoom bins are, in my experience, a waste of money.
- * Nitrogen filled bins are meant to avoid the problem of fungus growth.
- * Coatings are designed to reduce flare, glare, reflections and improve
light gathering ability. Important yes, but IMO not important when
buying, as what you see is what matters.
- * On the whole you get what you pay for!!!!!
- * I bought a second pair of my bins on a well know on-line auction site.
Do NOT buy any bins this way till you are sure what you are
buying is what will suit you.
- * Finally, buy proper lens cleaning cloths, blowers and
liquids.
I ruined a pair of mid range bins by cleaning off African dust with
a hankie and spit
Linear Mode
