How to...Buy Binoculars

[stigofthedump]

Originally Posted by Hobjob

Good sound background above.
I would add:


1.) 10x40 is too much for most people just starting with Bins. They just can't hold them still enough.

2.) You need another price Range.
£300-600
This will include many of the RSPB models which are VG value for money, but comes below the Swaro, Zeis and Leicas.

3.) Anyone paying over £500.00 should know what they are buying (or has too much money to listen or care).

4.) Advice on proper cleaning of lenses. My s-in-l has rubbed the coating off [b]two[b] pairs of my RSPB Bins by using his tee-shirt (probably salt on the lenses in the first place). I scratched an old pair of my Dad's by wiping off African dust.
They are precision bits of equipment and should be treated well.

If any sign of dust or grit Use a proper soft brush and/or blower before using the cloth.

5.) Image stabilized Bins (which means Canon I think) are heavy +++. They also gobble batteries several users have told me.

Totally unnecessary if most of watching is to be done from hides with elbows supported.

I have looked through several pairs in the field. the x10 and x12 were nice but nothing special. The x17 unsupported gave great views of distant object, even though they are not made from canon's legendary 'L' glass..

Too heavy for me.

(They, IMO, are also horrible to look at!).

6.) It takes a surprising amount of time to learn to use Bins properly.

By the same token, when just starting out you will not be able to appreciate the subtle difference in quality.

Many regular users have no real idea how to set the Bins for their own eyes.
this needs explaining in detail

Learning to continue looking at what you want to view whilst bringing the Bins to the eyes.

Do not breath on the eyepieces in the cold

We all learn to hold the Bins steadier as we practice.
Resting against trees, on 5 bar gates can help++.

I regularly see non-spectacle wearer with their eyerings down.

If a non-spectacle wearer, do the eye rings stay out on
their own?
(Tip - mine don't, but a piece of narrow velcro makes sure
they do!!)

If you DO wear spectacles, what is the "eye-relief" measurement?
This is the distance from eye-pice lens to front of eye; if not
at least 12mm you are probably not seeing all the image.

7.) Most people have spent some time choosing their Bins. Ask in hides to have a look through some. People are usually only too willing, and some, like me, are real bores about it!

8.) How close do they focus?
JerryH on this list has a a separate close focussing set for dragons etc..

9.) 'Nitrogen filled' helps prevent fungal growth and is usually a sign of [b]not[b] being a rubbish pair of Bins.

10.) Are they easy to focus? Will you be able to focus in
gloves if you are not just a fair weather user?

How many turns of the focussing ring does it take to go from near focus to infinity?

11.) Learn the tricks for assessing Bins properly.
Look at a vertical or horizontal sharp edge, preferably
with a high light contrast. Colour shadings (usually blue or
purplish) at the edge are a bad sign. "Chromatic aberration"
(chimneys are good for this)

Test in poor visibility - All Bins seem OK in good light on a sunny day, especially with sun behind you.

On dark, cloudy miserable days the better Bins still look bright.

How badly to they flare if the light is in front of you?

12.) Emphasise that Zooms are rubbish.

13.) Buy in dedicated shop, not in high street where spotty teenagers have not got a clue.

Buy only where you can try several pairs at the same time.

Go to at least two shops as they all stock only limited brands.


HTH

A most excellent post from a person who has obviously a grasp of the subject matter.

Vince